Wine of the Week: 2004 Kourtaki

To escape the ennui of the same old whites, head for the region historically primed to produce great wine--but contary to conventional thinking, is not known for it. Greece. The first of my 3 Greek wines, this is a simple but underrated country wine. Produced in Crete from the indigenous Vilana grape, this everyday quaffer is dry, crisp, chalky, and minerally--owing to Crete's sandy soil, no doubt. Straight fruit will greet your nose, with apple and citrus scents. Goes down easy, though it leaves little memory of itself on the palate. It's a hit and, at $6-7, it's a steal, so grab one today. 87 points.